CULINARY EXCELLENCE

Chef Stefan Stiller, the culinary mastermind behind Shanghai’s acclaimed Taian Table, shares insights on his creative process, international collaborations, and the artistry of balancing tradition with innovation at the prestigious Epicure event in Zurich.

WHAT DOES IT MEAN FOR YOU TO PARTICIPATE IN THE EPICURE EVENT AT THE DOLDER GRAND, AND HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT COLLABORATING WITH CHEF HEIKO NIEDER?

       Participating in the Epicure event is a true honor. Being part of such an exquisite gathering of culinary talents is not only an immense pleasure but also an important opportunity for the culinary community. Collaborating with chefs from around the world, exchanging ideas, and enjoying this unique atmosphere is always a wonderful experience. It’s both a privilege and a joy to be here.

 

WHAT UNIQUE ELEMENTS OR CULINARY TECHNIQUES WILL YOU BE BRINGING FROM TAIAN TABLE TO THIS EVENT IN ZURICH?

       At the core, cooking is not about reinventing the wheel, but rather doing what we do best and presenting it beautifully. For this event, we’ve brought over exceptional ingredients and flavor combinations that we work with in Shanghai. It’s always a delight to cook with top-tier products, especially those we can’t always find in China. One of the dishes I’m presenting features veal sweetbreads, paired with a risotto made from barley-a dish that showcases ingredients we don’t often have access to in China. Cooking with these ingredients again in Europe is both a challenge and a pleasure.

 

HOW DO YOU ENSURE THAT THE ESSENCE OF TAIAN TABLE IS REPRESENTED IN YOUR DISHES WHEN COOKING AT INTERNATIONAL EVENTS LIKE EPICURE?

       The dishes we are presenting here stay true to the essence of Taian Table. We may make small adjustments depending on the ingredients available, but overall, these dishes represent the same philosophy and flavors that we serve in Shanghai. It’s about consistency and ensuring that our DNA is preserved no matter where we are.

 

WHAT INSPIRED THE CREATIONS YOU’LL BE SHOWCASING AT EPICURE, AND CAN YOU TELL US A BIT ABOUT THEIR DEVELOPMENT PROCESS?

       At Taian Table, innovation is constant. We change our menu every six weeks, so we’re always working with new ideas and seasonal ingredients. Currently, we’re on our 47th menu since opening, and each one is an entirely fresh experience. Inspiration often starts with the product itself. China is vast and has numerous micro-seasons, allowing us to source incredible ingredients from all over the country. The diversity and richness of these ingredients inspire us to continually create new and exciting dishes.

 

HOW DO YOU PERCEIVE THE CULINARY SCENE IN ZURICH COMPARED TO OTHER INTERNATIONAL CULINARY HUBS YOU’VE WORKED IN?

       Zurich is a truly stunning city. The combination of its lakeside location and the backdrop of the mountains creates a very unique setting. While I don’t know Zurich’s culinary scene in great detail, I find it vibrant and diverse. From what I’ve seen, Zurich is perhaps the most international culinary hub in Switzerland, which adds to the allure of being part of an event like Epicure.

 

HOW DO YOU INTEGRATE FEEDBACK FROM GUESTS AND PATRONS INTO YOUR CULINARY PROCESS AND MENU DEVELOPMENT?

       Guest feedback is certainly important to us. At Taian Table, more than 90% of our guests are local Chinese, so we need to cater to their tastes without compromising our core identity. We value their opinions, but it’s essential for us to maintain our DNA and culinary spirit. Striking that balance between listening to our guests and staying true to our vision is key to our success.

 

IN WHAT WAYS DO EVENTS LIKE EPICURE PROVIDE OPPORTUNITIES FOR GROWTH AND INNOVATION IN YOUR CULINARY PRACTICE?

       Events like Epicure are fantastic for networking. Meeting chefs from around the globe, sharing techniques, and discussing the intricacies of our craft are vital for growth. Traveling and experiencing different perspectives are essential for continuous development as a chef. These interactions inspire innovation and help us to stay at the forefront of the culinary world.

 

HOW DO YOU MAINTAIN A BALANCE BETWEEN TRADITIONAL CULINARY TECHNIQUES AND MODERN INNOVATIONS IN YOUR COOKING?

       Tradition is incredibly important to me. Some preparations, such as stocks or foundational recipes, need to follow time-honored methods. However, it’s equally important to stay open to new techniques and approaches. For me, the focus is always on the taste and texture of the dish. While presentation is important, some chefs cook solely for Instagram, and that’s not our philosophy. A dish should not only look beautiful but also be deeply satisfying to eat. The balance of tradition and innovation lies
in respecting the roots of the dish while always striving for excellence in flavor and texture.

 

CAN YOU SHARE A MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE FROM YOUR CULINARY CAREER THAT PARTICULARLY STANDS OUT AS A TURNING POINT OR SIGNIFICANT ACHIEVEMENT?

       Moving to China 20 years ago was a major turning point in my life. My wife and I initially planned to stay for just a few years, but we ended up building a life there. Opening Taian Table was another significant milestone. When we first opened, there was no Michelin Guide in China, so our goal wasn’t necessarily to achieve Michelin stars. However, five months after opening, we received our first star, followed by a second and eventually a third. Achieving three stars wasn’t something we initially aimed for-it came naturally as we pushed our limits and constantly strove for improvement. Today, we continue to challenge ourselves to surprise and delight our guests.

 

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