CAN YOU DESCRIBE YOUR OVERALL PHILOSOPHY WHEN IT COMES TO MERGING HAUTE HORLOGERIE WITH THE POETIC AND JEWELRY-DRIVEN IDENTITY OF VAN CLEEF & ARPELS?
At the center of every creation is the story We always begin with a narrative, which becomes the guiding force of the development. Three key entities work together: the creative studio, which defines the design and aesthetics; the high jewelry craftsmanship; and the watchmaking engineering. All three must collaborate closely. The creative studio, the craftsmen, and the engineers work as one team, aligning their expertise to bring the story to life.
WHAT DOES THE R&D PROCESS LOOK LIKE FOR COMPLEX, NARRATIVE-DRIVEN TIMEPIECES FROM CONCEPT TO EXECUTION?
The process always starts with the story. Once the right concept identified, we move into sketches, technical analysis, and early design work. It is similar to creating a film. We define a script for how the piece will function and evolve over time. Every detail must be carefully planned, from movement to animation to visual elements. If something is not technically feasible, we adapt the narrative accordingly. This process involves close collaboration between experts in watchmaking. design, high jewelry, enameling, and craftsmanship, all working together to refine the concept into a fully realized piece.
WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST TECHNICAL CHALLENGES WHEN DEVELOPING MOVEMENTS WITHIN JEWELRY-FOCUSED DESIGNS?
One of the main challenges is that all technical elements must remain hidden. The mechanics are designed to stay behind the scenes so that the focus remains on the visual and poetic expression. Another challenge is that each piece is unique. Because every story requires a different approach, we rarely reuse movements. Most developments start from scratch. We also aim to keep the technical design as efficient as possible. Complexity is not the goal in itself. Even when a movement contains hundreds of components, each one must be essential.
HOW DO YOU APPROACH INNOVATION WHILE STAYING TRUE TO THE BRAND’S HERITAGE?
Innovation is always driven by the story. We do not innovate first and then look for a purpose. Instead, the narrative defines what needs to be developed. For example, in one piece we wanted to depict dew drops on a leaf using diamonds set within enamel. Achieving this effect required two years of research. The innovation came from the need to realize a specific visual element within the story.
CAN YOU SHARE AN EXAMPLE OF A PROJECT WHERE THE TEAM HAD TO INVENT A NEW SOLUTION OR TECHNOLOGY?
In one project involving animated elements, we needed to precisely control the power delivered by the spring to achieve the desired motion. We developed a system that adjusts torque over time, providing more power at the beginning and less towards the end. This solution was patented and allowed us to meet the technical requirements of the narrative.
HOW DOES YOUR TEAM COLLABORATE WITH HIGH JEWELRY AND DESIGN DEPARTMENTS?
Collaboration is constant and essential. Every discipline is interdependent, meaning that decisions in design, craftsmanship, and engineering affect one another. The teams must communicate clearly to ensure that creative ideas are technically feasible, while technical constraints are integrated into the design. This shared process allows all teams to align and develop a cohesive final creation.
WHAT TRENDS DO YOU SEE SHAPING THE FUTURE OF HIGH-END MECHANICAL WATCHMAKING, AND HOW IS THE MAISON PREPARING?
We will continue focusing on creating high jewelry pieces that tell time through stories. This includes poetic complications, animated scenes, and even automatons and extraordinary objects that add new dimensions to storytelling. With the expertise, craftsmanship, and technical capabilities in place, the focus is on continuing to develop new narratives and expanding how time can be expressed creatively.
WHAT WAS THE MOST REWARDING PROJECT IN YOUR CAREER AT VAN CLEEF & ARPELS?
The most rewarding aspect is the overall journey. Over many years, I have seen ideas evolve from concept to final creation. Starting with an idea that seems difficult to achieve and, years later, seeing it realized in a form very close to the original vision is extremely fulfilling. Continuing to develop these creations with the team remains the most rewarding experience.
